Updated:Feb 20, 2024 | Published: Aug 14, 2019 by James
Based in the U.K., my passion for raw denim led me to join Heddels in 2016. I am a fan of all things Japanese, but especially the country's take on Americana clothing, from early workwear to mid-century sportswear and beyond.
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Stepping into the world of raw denim jeans can be a difficult process. Sizing, soaking, and sanforization—it’s all a different world when compared to simply trying on a pair of jeans in the mall. But if this website is a testament to anything, it’s that raw denim jeans are worth it. And once you’ve gone raw, you’re very unlikely to return to ‘normal’ jeans anytime soon.
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As you will have gathered, Japan is the raw denim capital of the world. The Japanese have truly mastered the art of weaving the finest raw selvedge denim and crafting five-pocket jeans, so it comes as no surprise that most of the big labels in the raw denim scene are from Japan. In addition to producing jeans of paramount quality, Japanese raw denim brands have a level of mystique and flair that makes their jeans covetable by denim heads worldwide.
Japanese raw denim labels have a cult following that springs to life in forums like Superfuture, Styleforum, and Reddit, all of which can be very useful when researching raw denim jeans. But to a beginner, it can feel like seasoned denim heads talk in a language of their own. “The s710xx is great bro, a bit slimmer than Sugar Cane 1947s, but they’re 19oz. and loomstate!”.
For this reason, we’ve compiled a quick-stop guide to the big names in raw Japanese denim. From Samurai to Studio D’Artisan, we’ve identified the most discussed Japanese denim labels and their most commonly recommended models.
*This article is about Japanese raw denim labels. If you’re new to raw denim in general, check out our Raw Denim 101 and What is Selvedge Denim?
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Burgus Plus
Image via Okayama Denim
The in-house brand of Japanese denim and heritage superstore Hinoya, Burgus Plus offers high-quality, Japanese-made garments at an affordable price point. Started in 1997 by Osamu Taniguchi, Burgus Plus prides itself on ‘ultimate basics’ and takes inspiration from mid-century American garments. With this in mind, the brand offers a solid range of raw denim jeans and jackets in a variety of silhouettes. Burgus Plus mainly use mid-weight denim, including a 14.5 oz. natural indigo denim. If you want a slim, or slim-straight jean, Burgus Plus will certainly have some options for you.
Burgus Plus Key Silhouettes
955-xx
Fit: Slim Straight
Fabric: 14.5oz. Natural Indigo woven from indigo rope-dyed American cotton (with beige weft for a deeper tone).
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One of the famed Osaka 5 that formed the Japanese denim scene in the late ’80s and early ’90s, Full Count is one of the most reputable Japanese denim labels out there. Founded by Mikiharu Tsujita in 1993, Full Count is known for its use of Zimbabwean extra-long-staple cotton in the production of denim. This luxury fiber produces denim that is tough and durable but with a much softer hand. Tsujita believes that Zimbabwean cotton creates denim that emulates the American denim of the ’40s and ’50s – something that Full Count works so hard to reproduce.
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Price-wise, Full Count is up there with the more expensive labels, but if it’s vintage-style denim you’re after, it doesn’t get much better than this.
Raw (left)vs one wash (right) Full Count 0105 Jeans
Fit: Wide straight
Fabric: 13.75 oz. Zimbabwean cotton raw selvedge denim
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Details: One of the wider raw denim jeans on the market, goatskin leather waist patch, custom hardware, made in Osaka, available in one wash or raw variants.
Initially founded in 2003 by Shinichi Haraki, Iron Heart appointed Englishman Giles Padmore in 2005 to manage their international sales. Soon after, Giles and Haraki formed a firm partnership that sees Iron Heart distributed widely in the Western world, with a head office in Portsmouth, England.
Iron Heart is known for its exceptionally built garments, but especially its heavyweight jeans that have seen the brand gain a cult following. The brand’s XHS 25 oz. denim is one of the heaviest on the market and is far from a gimmick. If you’re after slim jeans made from exclusive heavyweight raw denim fabrics, then Iron Heart won’t disappoint. You only have to check our Fade Friday features to see how these beastly jeans produce stunning, high-contrast fades.
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Iron Heart Key Silhouettes
IH-666
Image via Iron Heart
Fit: Slim straight
Fabric: Various
Details: Made in Japan, Iron Heart arcuates, chain stitch hems, custom hardware, leather waist patch
Founded in 2010 by the folks at COLLECT Mills in Kojima, Japan Blue is just one of the brands under the ‘Japan Blue Group’ umbrella, which also includes Setto, Soulive, and Momotaro. Japan Blue uses the vast experience of the COLLECT Mills to create contemporary products that blend heritage denim details with modern silhouettes.
Japan Blue jeans are highly affordable, fundamental raw denim jeans without all the bells and whistles. Their motto ‘material is the key factor to jeans‘ says it all. Solid fabrics in a range of weights, colors, and silhouettes. If you’re just starting out with raw denim, Japan Blue is definitely a good brand to break that indigo seal.
Momotaro Jeans was founded in 2006. Hailing from Kojima, Japan, Momotaro Jeans is named after ‘Momotaro‘, a peach-boy character from Japanese folklore. The legend of Momotaro has it that Momotaro was born from a peach floating down a river. For this reason, Momotaro Jeans use their namesake as their logo, featuring Momotaro busting out of a peach (wearing jeans!).
Under the Japan Blue Group umbrella, Momotaro Jeans’ slogan is “made by hand, without compromise“. This motto rings true in the production of their jeans, which are handcrafted in the coastal district of Kojima to this very day. Momotaro jeans come in a range of fits, each using exclusive mid-weight denim that is woven on vintage Toyoda looms from Zimbabwean cotton.
Momotaro separates its jeans into three different labels, Copper Label, Vintage Label, and Going To Battle. Each label has a range of fits with different styling details, i.e. the Going To Battle Label is the line that features the brand’s infamous ‘battle stripe’ pockets. With silhouettes ranging from heavily tapered options to good ol’ straight leg, Momotaro is a globally successful denim brand that you can rely on for a solid pair of raw denim jeans.
Momotaro Key Silhouettes
0905
Fit: Straight leg
Fabric:
Details: Pink peach-inspired inseam thread, one-washed in shores of Okayama, battle stripe pocket detail
A brand shrouded in mystery, ONI is also named after a character from the Japanese legend of Momotaro. Japanese folklore describes that the peach boy Momotaro travelled to a mysterious island to battle an Oni, the Japanese term for a supernatural demon or ogre.
ONI was founded by Mr. Oishi, a prominent figure in Japanese denim who made his name working for Levi’s Japan andd playing a part in establishing early Japanese denin label, Canton Jeans. The brand is famed for its slubby, irregular, heavyweight denim that is genuinely unique, woven at low tension to produce a beautifully imperfect fabric with bundles of texture. If you want a pair of jeans with unrivalled character, ONI is definitely worth looking into.
Seen as one of the most progressive and unique Japanese denim brands, Pure Blue Japan pushes the boundaries of raw denim with artisanal fabrics that look like no other in terms of color, texture, and weave. Based in Okayama, Pure Blue Japan has been operating since 1997.
The brand uses yarn-dyeing—a process where the cotton yarns are dyed prior to weaving—to create their raw denim, which is notorious for its slubby texture. Often abbreviated as PBJ, Pure Blue Japan specializes in slim, contemporary fits with a small hem opening. Each pair of PBJs features their iconic embroidered feather emblem on the back pocket. If you’re looking for a pair of heavily tapered jeans with heaps of fading potential, balling out on a pair of PBJs will leave you very satisfied.
Pure Blue Japan Key Silhouettes
XX-013
Fit: Slim Tapered
Fabric: 14 oz. PBJ Original Slubby Japanese Selvedge Denim
Details: Signature Pure Blue Japan leaf embroidery on back pocket, blue selvedge ID, HBT pocket bags
Founded in 1997 by Toru Nogami (Nogami-san), Samurai Jeans is one of the most revered Japanese raw denim brands in the scene. Despite not being part of the initial raw denim boom pioneered by the Osaka 5, Samurai Jeans (also Osaka-based) has carved a reputation through its solid range of indigo goods that blend Americana influences with Japanese heritage.
The brand uses a range of fabric weights, with the core offering being their signature 19 0z. raw denim with silver selvedge ID, representing the Samurai’s sword. Samurai takes huge pride in the identity of their jeans, often conjuring up different rivet details, arcuates, and leather waist patches for each model.
If you’re looking for something heavyweight, robust, and distinctly Japanese, Samurai will tick those boxes and more.
Samurai Key Silhouettes
S710
Fit: Slim Straight
Fabric: 19 oz. Japanese exclusive raw selvedge denim
Sitting under the Toyo Enterprise umbrella, Sugar Cane is a revered Japanese repro-denim label appreciated by denim heads across the globe. Guided by Yuichi f*ckutomi, Sugar Cane has meticulously researched work and menswear of a bygone era to inform its thoroughly built reproductions down to the smallest details like stitch count and rivet placement.
Sugar Cane’s Hawaii Denim that features 50% sugar cane fibers. Image via Frankin & Poe.
Famed for their accessible 1947 cut jean that comes in around $200, Sugar Cane typically uses mid-weight, ringspun Japanese selvedge denim, woven on original narrow shuttle looms that were commonplace in the 1930s. In addition, the brand produces a unique, custom denim made from a 50/50 blend of cotton and actual sugar cane fibers that give the fabric a slubby, irregular texture.
Images via Fashion Path Finder Tokyo and Red Cast Heritage Co.
Part of the famed Osaka 5, Studio D’Artisan is a playful Japanese denim brand with something for everyone. With its infamous buta (pig) branding, Studio d’Artisan manages to balance heritage designs with light-hearted details that breathe a new lease of life into archetypal mid-century designs. Founded in 1979, Studio D’Artisan was the first Japanese denim label to use deadstock hardware on their jeans and the first to create shuttle loom woven hank dyed jeans in Japan. Today, the brand offers a wide range of jeans ranging from super slim all the way to wide-straight.
Studio D’Artisan Key Silhouettes
D-01
Fit: Straight leg
Fabric: 15 oz. Hank Dyed Natual Indigo Japanese selvedge denim
Details: First Studio D’Artisan model, natural indigo denim with an artisanal dyeing process, SDA arcuates, cinch back
Founded in Nagano Prefecture, Japan, in 1996, The Flat Head is a no-expenses-spared love affair with Americana-style clothing. Brand director Kobayashi-san has a rich history of dealing with American denim and has honed his knowledge to create some of the most reputable raw denim jeans on the market. Kobayashi insists on paramount quality within each step of the brand’s production process, resulting in raw denim jeans that are built to last and age beautifully. Kobayashi has famously stated:
“At the time of purchase the product is only 50% complete, but that this completeness level rises with repeated wearing as the product begins to meld itself to the unique shape of each individual.”
The Flat Head specializes in slimmer cuts, made from exclusive mid-weight denim that is famed for its potential to yield high-contrast fades. Each pair comes with a branded goat leather waist patch, custom hardware, and The Flat Head’s signature arcuates.
The Flat Head Key Silhouettes
3009
Fit: Regular straight
Fabric: 14.5oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge Denim
Details: Rope dyedwarp yarns, goat leather waist patch, custom hardware, red selvedge ID
The youngest label in this guide, TCB is a Japanese denim label that has risen to success in the last decade. TCB— an abbreviation for both ‘taking care of business’ and ‘two cats brand’—was founded by Hajime Inoue in 2008. An ex-denim apprentice, Inoue-san used his knowledge of Japanese denim craft and vintage American jeans to conceive his own brand. Today, TCB is known for its charming reproductions of classic American jeans, built with immense craftsmanship and Japanese flare.
What makes TCB so special is how small its range of jeans is. Separated into ’20s, ’50s, and ’60s styles, TCB has aimed to master the archetypal fits of those eras. If you’re after heavily tapered, contemporary jeans, TCB won’t be your solution. But if it’s high-quality, classic straight-legged jeans you’re interested in, TCB has got you covered.
TCB Key Silhouettes
50s
Image via Redcast Heritage
Fit: Wide straight (50s Levi’s 501 repro)
Fabric: 13.5 oz raw selvedge denim
Details: Accessible price-point, charming reproduction product, paper waist patch, pink selvedge ID, red pocket tab
was founded in 1995 by Kenichi and Koji Shiotani, making it the youngest of the Osaka 5 brands. Both Kenichi and Koji were previously involved with an incarnation ofEvisu, but a difference in philosophy led them to depart and pursue their own denim dreams. They created Warehouse with the intention of faithfully producing vintage mid-century jeans, down to the last detail. They reinforced this philosophy with their motto—“The faithful reproduction of authentic vintage garments.”
Warehouse & Co. entered the denim industry with its Lot. 1001xx model raw denim jeans, which remains the brand’s calling card to this day. With a loose-straight fit that mirrors Levi’s 501XX jeans from the 1950s in terms of fabric and construction, the Lot. 1001 encapsulates the Shiotani brother’s passion for vintage denim through period-correct details like iron buttons, copper rivets, a red rayon pocket tab, and curved rear pocket arcuates. The brand continues to make the Lot.1001, but treats it like Levi’s treated their 501, issuing it in different cuts and fabrics.
“Once people wear an authentic pair of jeans, they may realize or rediscover the true charm of the garment. I think more and more people will love to wear jeans through the experience, just like us who have been steeped in it since the first time we wore vintage jeans.”– Koji Shiotani speaking to Beams Plus
Warehouse Key Silhouettes
Lot 1000
Fit: Straight leg with high rise (WWII repro)
Fabric: Warehouse exclusive 13.3 oz. raw selvedge denim
Details: Pink selvedge ID, deerskin leather patch, chain stitch runoff on waistband, iron tack buttons, painted arcuates reminiscent of WWII thread rationing
The simple answer is that selvage denim requires craftsmanship. The production process itself is signified by its slower production speed, and lower output. Selvage denim, at least the ones we use, relies on vintage weaving looms that date back at least 70 years.
But the bottom line if you're buying unsanforized raw denim is that you're going to need to size UP, as the fabric will shrink significantly after wash, and with sanforized denim you may want to size DOWN, as it will stretch quite a bit after wearing.
This choice of raw materials contributes to the fabric's durability, luxurious softness, and distinctive texture. Adding to its allure, Japanese denim manufacturers often employ traditional indigo dyeing techniques, creating deep and captivating hues.
A good rule of thumb is to hold off on that first wash until you've crossed the 150- wear line, but we like to push it just a little further than this, aiming for six months of wear.
The second myth that needs busting is that you never need to wash raw or selvedge denim. While denim is naturally antibacterial and therefore don't need to be washed nearly as often as your tee shirts, socks, and underwear, they still get soiled over time. Food, dirt, oils from your skin… there's just no way around it.
That's what we love about using Japanese denim within Levi's® Made & Crafted® – it takes the construction to an unmatched level of precision and specificity that's only attainable by artisans trained in Japanese craftsmanship.
The denim is woven on vintage shuttle looms, unlike the modern looms used in Western factories. These slower looms produce denim that is half the width of the American denim made on modern looms. Japanese denim is a luxury because of the craftsmanship behind it.
Many of our jeans, including our selvedge denim, are made by Kaihara, a denim manufacturer in Hiroshima, who we have been in partnership with since 1998. Established in 1893, Kaihara is Japan's top denim manufacturer.
Raw denim is denim that hasn't been washed or treated. It is the purest form of denim, and the primary choice of denim for denimheads. Raw denim is also known as 'dry denim' and 'unwashed denim.
Because the fabric hasn't been pre-washed, raw denim jeans are pretty stiff when you put them on the first time. It takes a few weeks of regular wear to break-in and loosen up a pair. The indigo dye in the fabric can rub off as well. We'll talk more about this when we go over the pros and cons of raw denim below.
Each time you wash your raw denim, you'll be losing some of the indigo. So yes, each wash will fade your denim. However, the indigo loss will be uniform. Think of each wash as an all-over fade.
It's true! By soaking your jeans, all the points of tension across the garment are softened, meaning that there is altogether less friction in the jean, and therefore less ripping and abrasion.
The denim fabric is untreated, which means that no water or chemicals were used to create a washed effect. Also, since the jeans aren't treated, the denim fabric is in its best condition possible. Due to this, raw denim tends to last longer than its washed counterparts.
Japanese denim has a reputation among denim enthusiasts as being the best in the world, and for a good reason. While it doesn't have as long of a history as American jeans like the Levi's 501, Japanese selvedge denim is known for its premium construction and the skilled, artisanal craft required in the making process.
Introduction: My name is Mr. See Jast, I am a open, jolly, gorgeous, courageous, inexpensive, friendly, homely person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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